Paris Fashion Week is the final chord of a series of September shows. If, after months of quarantine, you develop an allergic reaction to home clothes and imagining images for Zoom conferences, the industry mastodons are ready to offer their medicine. Here are the trends that ruled the Parisian proscenium in the Spring-Summer 2021 collections.
The return of the miniskirt
The Miu Miu show was like a master class on ‘how to dress relaxed and at ease’ addressed to fans of Euphoria,” writes American Vogue. The playful energy of young models – including Lila Moss – was overwhelming, and the miniskirt, which became a symbol of the youthquake movement in the 1960s (this term was coined in 1965 by the then editor-in-chief of Vogue Diana Vreeland), found a new life with an easy hand of Miucci Prada.
Romantic Armor
As Sarah Mauer pointed out, the volumetric proportions in the Loewe collection “. Speak volumes about the fact that women are taking up more and more space in the modern world .”. Jonathan Anderson, in turn, calls this “romantic armor” and suggests that branded clothing be perceived as “a form of escapism.”
Relaxed tailoring
If the “bloated” and deliberately voluminous silhouettes of past seasons associated with something alarming. And aggressive for many, now designers offer a more relaxed approach to costume classics. For example, oversized pants in the Louis Vuitton collection symbolize freedom and unity. “I interested in gender neutrality and its evolution in fashion. Nowadays, clothes are often suitable for everyone, regardless of orientation, gender identity, binary or non-binary. This intermediate zone is gaining in importance. I don’t want to call it “gray” – better “rainbow”,.
Drama
If you missed the theatrical component of fashion. Then the final shows of the fashion marathon have surely become an outlet for you. Perhaps the most striking examples are the collections of Maison Mariela and Loewe. Particular attention should be paid to multi-layered items made from translucent fabrics: in the case of Loewe. This is another way to apply the techniques of haute tailoring to ready-to-wear. “We worked on the collection while in quarantine,”. Anderson said in an interview with Vogue, “we couldn’t get the fabrics we needed, so we had to use what was at hand. I told the team, “Just let your imagination run wild and do what you want!” What happened, as a result, is the merit of each of us. “
Linen accents
When I worked for Martin Mariela, I once heard from him the following phrase:. “ There should be echoes of time in things ”. It touched me deeply, ” Balenciaga creative director Dema Visalia told Sarah Mauer. If the designer was referring to the items from the new collection, inspired by vintage Parisian lingerie. It must admitted that through additional wardrobe items he managed to give them an extremely modern look.
“When I think about the future, I can’t imagine a Stanley Kubrick-style space odyssey. My vision is much more mundane. In ten years, the fashion industry will finally take the path of sustainable development. This is out of the question. I think we will reuse the clothes we wear, ”says the creative director of Balenciaga. “Things get even more beautiful over time.
Drapery
In the outgoing season, we have become so addicted to tops that look more like bras. And flaunting underwear that we fully share the opinion of Olivier Rousteing. As the designer said in an interview with Vogue, “there is a hint of sex in any fashion show.”. This time the drapery plays the role of that very hint, and the more effective and voluminous it is, the better.
Grid
Dismissing the traditional screening, Dries van Note asked the Dutch artist. Viviane Sassan to create a look book for the S / S 2021 collection. And a film to add to it. The result is a very light beach story that perfectly conveys the ephemeral feeling of summer, contained in a single word – happiness. To further demonstrate the perfect summer wardrobe. The designer, in addition to numerous cotton shirts and knee-length shorts, has added mesh items to the collection.
